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» InCar Expert » System Planner » Amplifier (front/rear)

Amplifier (front/rear)

Choose options for the power amplifier to drive your front and rear speakers.

WHAT'S WATT
When selecting an amplifier for powering midrange speakers (mids) and tweeters, or compact 2-way and 3-way full-range speakers up to 165mm diameter, power output is often not the main priority. Subwoofers certainly need plenty of raw power to move those large cones for bass, but higher up the frequency range it's more about sound quality than quantity.

An amplifier's basic job is quite simple, to take the very low signal level coming from the CD player or whatever and make it into a much higher level. And, in theory at least, they should do it without adding or taking anything away from the character of the original sound. In other words they shouldn't add any distortion or alter the tone of the original signal, just make it bigger.

Of course it's never as simple as it might seem. There are some very pure amplifiers around but most do alter the character of the input signal in some way. It's the compromise you have to pay if you don't want to blow 2 month's wages on a new amp, and it's usually totally acceptable. The way most amplifiers alter the sound is subtle, far less than the way the speakers will affect the sound, and can even be welcome. Some will add a little warmth to what might otherwise be a clinical sound, while others may do the reverse, bringing life and dynamics into what would otherwise sound a bit dull.

Unless you're an audio purist, this compromise won't be a problem, but some amplifiers have had corners cut in their design or the quality of the components inside. These are the ones to avoid as they will alter the sound in ways that are really not pleasant, especially after listening for an hour or so.

So, as you can see, power output is by no means the only criteria on which to judge and choose your next amplifer. Having said that, most of you will naturally want to start by comparing the power output of different models.

Firstly, when comparing the claimed power output of one amplifier against another, always go by the RMS figures. Don't take any notice of MAX and Peak ratings as they don't conform to any particular measurement standard and are made up by the men in suits.

If it's included in the blurb, always take a note of the THD (Total Harmonic Distortion) figure quoted alongside the power output figure. It's a percentage and shows how much distortion will be produced at the claimed output. For example, two amplifiers might both say they give 100W RMS, but one might say 1% THD and the other might say 0.005% THD. In practice both will sound okay at 100W, because around 1% distortion isn't going to sound bad, but the first amplifier is likely to reach 10% THD much sooner than the second one. So actually the second one will give more good sounding power.

If you are looking to select an amplifier specifically for powering subwoofers, there are some other tips to pass on, so head over to the section on Subwoofer Amplifiers.

Finally some quick do's and don'ts:
Don't mount the amplifier under a carpet or inside any small enclosed area - it could easily overheat and burn.
Never wire a power amplifier into the car's original wiring - it probably won't be designed to take the higher current and could burn, causing an expensive electrical fire. And you often won't know what circuit you're cutting into.
Always mount a fuse in the power cable going to the amplifier, and place it close to the battery positive terminal. The amplifier may have a fuse but that's to protect the amplifier - the one next to the battery protects your car and you!
Where and how you terminate the ground (negative) cable is important. Do it wrong and you may restrict the performance of the amplifier and end up with various kinds of interference. If possible, terminate the cable to an existing bolt into the car's metal body, keeping the cable as short as possible.
Of course if you visit an InCar Expert they'll ensure these and many other things are covered.

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